The most deliriously odd watering hole I’ve ever set foot in is a place named Kagaya. Surprisingly, I stumbled across this place in the glum business district of Shinbashi and, at first, it was misleadingly inauspicious- inside, it was a small, simple Izekaya, deserted but for a young man in an apron. He greeted us eagerly and told us his name was Mark Kagaya- a rather unorthodox monicker for a Japanese guy, but I didn’t pry.
Once me and my friends were seated, Mark presented us with a mysterious list of countries and instructed us to pick one, and told us he’d then deliver the first round of drinks in the style of the country chosen. Intrigued, we decided on the USA, and the young waiter disappeared behind a curtain.
We waited, not knowing what to expect. Before long, Mark emerged carrying a tray of drinks. He was inexplicably wearing a luminous green frog costume, and suddenly launched into a surreal, mind-boggling performance, involving lots of screaming and jumping. I sat agape, uncomprehending, as I witnessed this demented scene. Mark vanished again as quickly as he’d arrived, leaving me and my friends shell-shocked.
“What kind of a place is this?” I whispered as I picked up my beer glass which, to my surprise, started shaking uncontrollably. No, I didn’t have a serious case of the D.Ts, the glass was a battery-powered novelty designed to vibrate when lifted. My mate raised his glass and it emitted a loud “moo”-ing noise like a cow.
The eccentric waiter soon re-appeared minus the frog costume, as if nothing had happened, to take our food orders. There was no conventional menu to be seen, but rather a deranged puppet show involving a teddy bear demonstrating how delicious the food was. Utterly confused, we managed to order something by nodding.
The escapades continued, with increasing lunacy. As the liquor flowed, our inhibitions evaporated and my friends and I began to enjoy the infantile merrymaking. The hyperactive host kept popping behind his magic curtain and bringing us games and toys to play with. Table football, balloons, electronic games, and monkey costumes. I was grinning like a stoned toddler all night.
Later, we got chatting to Mark and he revealed that bar-tending had been the family trade for generations and that Kagaya had stood at the very same spot in Shinbashi for over a century. The costumes, games and crazy atmosphere were entirely of his own invention, however. I got the impression he`d have been more suited to a career as a clown in the circus than running a bar. Perhaps, though mismatched to the profession, he felt obliged to continue the family tradition, just as the sons of Kabuki performers are expected to put on make-up and take to the stage. Still, Mark has made the most of the situation in his own unique way, creating a totally original drinking experience.
To be able to regress to the level of a brainless five-year-old while chugging beer is enormously liberating. This was an experience akin to getting shit-faced in a kindergarten, without the subsequent spell in prison. Not that I’d know what drinking in a kindergarten’s actually like, I might add. I do have some principles, for god’s sake.
Info:
Kagaya, Hanasada BLDG. B1F, 5-12, Shinbashi 2-Chome, Minato-Ku, Tokyo.
Phone: 03-3591-2347
February 13, 2007 at 6:23 am |
Ok … I’ll make one stop there when I get to Japan … have to see this with my own eyes.
April 5, 2007 at 7:24 pm |
Just got back from Kagaya.
one word.
Mental.
Go there.
June 21, 2007 at 4:51 am |
When I visit Japan I really really hope this establishment is still around, because my husband and I are SO hitting that place up. It sounds like a blast.
June 21, 2007 at 11:24 am |
It is- I went there on Saturday!
September 10, 2007 at 8:23 am |
[...] and why? Well there are too many cool bars in Japan to count. My favourite is probably “Kagaya” in Shinjuku, simply because the man who runs it is such a lunatic, always putting on surreal costumes and [...]
September 18, 2007 at 11:13 am |
[...] and why? Well there are too many cool bars in Japan to count. My favourite is probably “Kagaya” in Shinjuku, simply because the man who runs it is such a lunatic, always putting on surreal costumes and [...]
October 4, 2007 at 2:01 am |
[...] The chief appeal of this utterly mental Shimbashi pub is the amazing host, Mark Kagaya, who surprises his customers by making them play weird games, and serves drinks in surreal international costumes. The menu is a puppet show. Read more about it here. [...]
December 14, 2007 at 2:01 am |
[...] and country (although I’m wondering how a frog costume relates to the U.S., as mentioned in this blog entry). The cups make noises and move, and the owner performs puppet [...]
December 22, 2007 at 11:39 pm |
[...] Kagaya, in Shinbashi, which, frankly, is likely to win the title hands down every year. The chief appeal of this utterly mental Shimbashi pub is the amazing host, Mark Kagaya, who surprises his customers by making them play weird games, and serves drinks in surreal international costumes. The menu is a puppet show. You can read more about it here. [...]
February 2, 2008 at 1:48 pm |
OK, I have noted where this is. ‘Mark’ needs to lighten the jpg with his map on it.
(Ehhh. Quit expecting him to; I did it.) He should go get the readable version of his map jpg at img.o3e.org/images/bfi1201927454v.jpg
April 8, 2008 at 5:12 am |
Just got back from Tokyo, went to Kagaya on our last night there. If we had made it there earlier in our trip, we probably would have gone there every night. Hands down my favorite bar EVER.
April 8, 2008 at 8:19 am |
Yeah, I love that place. Mark Kagaya is a crazy genius.
June 5, 2008 at 6:05 am |
I was there in Nov 07 but it was closed:-((
Will be back in Oct this year and will see then.
June 5, 2008 at 10:37 am |
I recommend calling in advance to book. It gets pretty busy!
July 31, 2008 at 2:46 pm |
I can’t wait to visit!
November 7, 2008 at 3:21 pm |
i went there- and holy shit! it was the weirdest place i’ve ever been to- he makes you feel uncomfortable and awkward, and makes you squirm in your seat. you must definitely check this place out- but dont order the food- it sucks.
June 17, 2009 at 9:02 pm |
[...] and i am speechless. While using Stumble Upon about 2 months ago i stumbled upon this page: http://gaijintonic.com/2007/02/08/kagaya-maddest-bar-in-tokyo/ . It looked very interesting and i told myself that i needed to go sometime. Well time past and i [...]
August 22, 2009 at 2:14 pm |
We went there last night, just as amazing as we thought, The beer glasses are mad, They vibrate when you pick them up making it very fun and hard to drink! It costs about 4000yen (£25ish) each for the all you can drink option and not only is the entertainment amazing the foods good as well! If your in Tokyo go there!
October 9, 2009 at 4:33 pm |
Im going there tonight.sooooooooooo excited
October 9, 2009 at 10:26 pm |
Have fun!
November 29, 2009 at 2:02 am |
Plsace sounds awesome!!! I’m on my way to Japan 12/2/09 I’ll be staying in Yokohama, how close is this bar to a train station?
Adios!
Michael
November 29, 2009 at 9:26 pm |
Yeah, it’s fun!
It’s just a couple of minutes from Shimbashi station (which is about 30 minutes on the Tokaido line from Yokohama).
There’s a map on the guy’s website which I link to above.
January 23, 2010 at 1:36 pm |
My friends and I hit up that place after reading about it on this blog when we were in Tokyo last year.
We will never forget it.
And I thought the food was delicious, btw! I wish I had spent more and ordered a bigger course, actually. the eggplant was to die for, and there was this marinated fish that was so awesome…and I don’t really like fish that much…
Anyway, thanks for recommending this place!
January 23, 2010 at 5:45 pm |
Glad you liked it!
Yeah, I love the food there. Apparently that’s traditional Japanese home-cooking.